A lasting impression for any visitor to Vietnam is
the beauty of the women dressed in their ao dais.
Girls dressed in white pick their way through
muddy streets going home from school or sail by
in a graceful chatter on their bikes. Secretaries in
delicate pastels greet you at an office door and
older ladies in deep shades of purple, green or
blue cut a striking pose eating dinner at a
restaurant. The ao dai appears to flatter every
figure. Its body-hugging top flows over wide
trousers that brush the floor. Splits in the gown
extend well above waist height and make it
comfortable and easy to move in. Although
virtually the whole body is swathed in soft flowing
fabric, these splits give the odd glimpse of a bare
midriff, making the outfit very sensual. Rapidly
becoming the national costume for ladies, its
development is actually very short compared to
the country's history.
Pronounced 'ao yai' in the south, but 'ao zai' in
the north, the color is indicative of the wearer's
age and status. Young girls wear pure white, fully
lined outfits symbolizing their purity. As they grow
older but are still unmarried they move into soft
pastel shades. Only married women wear gowns in
strong, rich colors, usually over white or black
pants. The ao dai has always been more
prevalent in the south than the north, but austerity
drives after 1975 meant it was rarely anywhere
seen for a number of years as it was considered an
excess not appropriate for hard work. The nineties
have seen a resurgence in the ao dai's popularity.
"It has become standard attire for many office
workers and hotel staff as well as now being the
preferred dress for more formal occasions," says
Huong, a secretary for a foreign company. "I feel
proud of my heritage when I wear it." For visitors,
the pink and blue of the Vietnam Airlines uniform
creates a lasting memory as they travel.
Early versions of the ao dai date back to 1744
when Lord Vu Vuong of the Nguyen Dynasty
decreed both men and women should wear an
ensemble of trousers and a gown that buttoned
down the front. It was not until 1930 that the ao
dai as we know it really appeared. Vietnamese
fashion designer and writer Cat Tuong, or as the
French knew him, Monsieur Le Mur, lengthened
the top so it reached the floor, fitted the bodice to
the curves of the body and moved the buttons
from the front to an opening along the shoulder
and side seam. Men wore it less, generally only
on ceremonial occasions such as at weddings or
funerals. But it took another twenty years before
the next major design change was incorporated
and the modern ao dai emerged. During the
1950s two tailors in Saigon, Tran Kim of Thiet
Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors, started
producing the gowns with raglan sleeves. This
creates a diagonal seam running from the collar
to the underarm and today, this style is still
preferred.
Its popularity is also spreading well beyond
Vietnam's borders. For years Vietnamese
immigrants preferred to adopt Western dress and
blend with their new community but now the ao
dai is seeing a revival amongst overseas
Vietnamese. At least here in the United States this
may be partly due to the arrival of Tram Kim,
known as Mr. Ao Dai. He shifted to California in
1982 and opened a new branch of Thiet Lap
Tailors in Garden Grove, Orange County, leaving
his Saigon store to his son. There are even annual
Miss Ao Dai pageants held and the prestigious
Long Beach show attracts entrants from across the
country. The clothing has also inspired French
designers including top names such as Christian
Lacroix and Claude Montana, and variations of
the tight sleeves, fitted bodice, high collar and
flowing trousers have been seen on the catwalks of
Europe.
Every ao dai is custom made, accounting for the
fit that creates such a flattering look. Stores
specialize in their production and a team of
cutters, sewers and fitters ensure that the final
product will highlight the figure of the wearer.
Thuy, a fitter in Ho Chi Minh City, says, "To create
the perfect fit, customers take their undergarments
and shoes with them for the fittings." The pants
should reach the soles of the feet and flow along
the floor.
Comfort has not been forgotten at the expense of
fashion and beauty. The cut allows the wearer
freedom of movement and despite covering the
whole body, it is cool to wear. Synthetic fabrics
are preferred as they do not crush and are quick
drying, making the ao dai a practical uniform for
daily wear.
Its popularity may be its undoing as the garment is
now being mass produced to make it more
available and cheaper. The gown length appears
to be gradually shortening and today is usually
just below the knee. Variations in the neck,
between boat and mandarin style, are common
and even adventurous alterations such as a low
scooped neckline, puffed sleeves or off the
shoulder designs are appearing as ladies
experiment with fashion. Colors are no longer as
rigidly controlled and access to new fabrics has
created some dazzling results. But most visitors to
Vietnam agree that the tailors already have the
perfect cut. It is hard to think of a more elegant,
demure and yet sexy outfit, that suits Vietnamese
women of all ages, than the ao dai.
Ao Dai
The National Costume
By: Claire Ellis
|